A Conversation With David
here’s a little email exchange I had with David Driscoll, Spirits Buyer for K&L Wine Merchants and frequent source of inspiration for the things I write in this space.
Hibiki (12 year) Japanese Whisky
Hibiki 12 is a widely-acclaimed blend of 12 year-old (or greater) Japanese whisky from global giant Suntory. It includes malts from Yamazaki and Hakushu and grain from Chita distillery. The components are aged in a variety of casks including ex-bourbon, ex-sherry, and casks that once held Umeshu, a plum liqueur.
Reader Questions
This unscheduled post is a response to reader Eric’s comments and questions on this week’s post, Older is Not Always Better.
Older is Not Always Better
I have good news and bad news for you. The bad news is that the statement “Older is not always better” has proven true in my own experience. Sorry. The good news is that you can take it with a grain of salt
Auchentoshan Three Wood
If this was once Auchentoshan, the sherry monster murdered it and stuffed it in a closet. While Auchentoshan Classic is understated, vanilla, and crisp, this is resinous, sticky-sweet, and overripe. That’s not to say it’s bad.
Edradour (10 year)
I was surprised at both the apparent age and the quality of this sample, and is robust and flavorful despite being only 40% ABV. For a 10 year-old to have this much deep, oxidized sherry flavor is impressive, and a testament to whatever casks they’re using.
Henry McKenna K&L Single Barrel (10 year)
Cost $27 but drinks like a $45 bourbon. A hefty 100 proof gives weight, and the rye-inflected standard bourbon notes are all accounted for and in the proper proportions. I could wish for a little more silkiness in the body and a bit more caramel and less charcoal in the wood notes, but all around a decent workhorse whiskey. A few drops of water elevate it to a $55 bourbon. Did I mention it was $27?
Don’t Go Too Far
Thoughts on whisky fanaticism and what “too far” looks like, and how to find your way back.
Tormore (12 year)
A few more years and a bottle strength of 46% ABV would do wonders for this malt. The nose is straightforward but delectable. The palate is somewhat washed-out, and the finish suffers somewhat from its youth (or lack of heavy wood influence). This isn’t a malt to impress at this age, but it shows promise of complexity in its future.
Old Grand-Dad Bourbon (40% ABV)
It’s not the most amazing bourbon in the world, but it’s light, refreshing, young, and vibrant. There are some interesting flavors and aromas, and except for its watery texture and low proof, it’s probably quite decent in a cocktail.